Brand-new FAMAS died quietly

[lotmr]

The gun arrived on monday from Tru without error. I bought a battery on tuesday (7.2 volt) from a local RC store, worked fine. I fired it a bit yesterday and it was working like a dream, full auto and semi. I go and fire off a couple shots out side today and it works fine, although I notice then when a shoot full auto slanting towards the ground after I stop firing a bb falls out, I decided to go into the garage and make sure it is firing at all (inside i can hear the ricochet and I know it is working). I fire off a shot or two and it works fine, i lower the muzzel to the ground as I inspect a few shards of shattered bb's and then I return to firing, although when i raise up the gun to take a shot, nothing happens. There is not as much of a "pull" on the trigger, its not hanging loose, but it feels like its disconnected somewhere. I belive that the trigger assembly may have disconnected from the motor somehow, mind you I was shooting the stock TM bb's. It will not fire in either full or semi auto. I'm scared it could be horribly broken, although I do not hear anything shaking around inside. Do you know what could be the problem? There was no loud snapping, no springs popping, no hisses, or clanks, the motor just doesn't fire. I hope that it is a simple fix of somesort. I am so fucked.

Thanks for your help.

[damage]

battery. is it charged?

[lotmr]

Originally Posted by damage

battery. is it charged?

haha, of course.

Thanks for your help, but luckly I got it to work. I remembered I hadn't decompressed my spring and that when I got it to work again (if ever) I would want it to have a working spring. Anyways I went up decompressed the spring and decided to have another try, I put it into semi, pull the trigger... and nothing. I try full auto and it magically springs to life. I switch back to semi and try it and now it works as well. Hooray! I assume that semi jammed somehow and that combonation on decompressing the spring and trying full auto put it back into use even though I tried full auto when I first tried to fix this :-? . oh well it works now.

Thanks again.

[The Saint]

You shattered your BBs? You're not using low quality BBs, are you?

[lotmr]

Originally Posted by The Saint

You shattered your BBs? You're not using low quality BBs, are you?

Read the original post, these are .25g TM BBs. I assume any BB would crack when shot at a -10C cement floor from 10 feet away.

[The Saint]

Sorry, miss that.

[Mysteryfish]

sounds like:

A bb got smashed on the way thru the gun, or got jammed and caused a backup.

The next likely event is that the piston slammed forward and hammered the nozzle into the mess inside the gun? Or came forward and fired, but there's shit jammed in the barrel/hop sleeve stopping a cycle from happening...

it sounds like whatever's going on might require a takedown to investigate.

Also 7.2 = bleh.

But anyways, that's not crucial.

Try: - using a cleaning rod and (relatively gently) pushing it back through the barrel with the magazine OUT to see if anything comes out through the mag well

Look into the magwell to see if you can see any damage/BB pieces/check the condition of the nozzle

check your battery connection -

check that all the wires (including the fuse) are all connected properly

press the spring de-tensioner (read the FAMAS manual to find it) and see if the piston will unwind for you... (get someone who knows how to explain it better to tell you about that)

If nothing gives you a clue about what's going on, get ready to take er to a shop or take apart.

[SEALs]

your motor might not be porperly tuned and you're suppose to use 8.4v battery.

[Mysteryfish]

Whoops, double post - anyways, I just read that you fixed it.

Ye - semi sometimes jams on AEGs... usually a burst on auto fixes it, but I guess detensioning PLUS a burst on auto is necessary sometimes on the FAMAS...

Interesting case..

[Mantelope]

It's not because it's a FAMAS, it's because it's a 7.2V battery.

[CDN_Stalker]

Minor issue, but your hop up is set at full off, that's why you find BBs falling out of the barrel when you stop shooting. AEGs are typically sent form the factory with the hop up set full off. Not sure why, but lots of people (new ones at that) think something is wrong as post it here.

Aside from that little tid-bit, I'll bugger off from this thread.

[Gryphon]

Everyone get off the 7.2V being inadequate, because it's not. I'm guessing everyone making these comments has never actually TRIED a 7.2V in an AEG? Perhaps if it was made from 600 mAh 2/3A cells it would suck, but any modern Sub-C NiMH pack ought to be just fine.

I used to have a TM AK47, stock. I bought a 7.2V GP 3300 mAh Champion Pack off my buddy who used to race R/C cars. I took it to XT and tested the ROF with it and it spat out 15 rounds per second, or 900 RPM.

You're telling me that's not fast enough?

[Avenging Angel]

Sounds to me like an everyday AEG problem... I've had the same thing happen with three of my MP5's, my M4A1 and my M1A1... All you have to do is flip into full auto and hold for a couple seconds so that the gear box cycles and moves the spring.

As per the battery, I'm going to have to say that when it comes to this issue, it DOES make a difference. The majority of these guns, from what I've seen so far have motors that are rated at about 8.4V 600mAh. As soon as you stick in anything less, you will be loosing torque. Now, if you wind your spring into a compressed state, stop, and then try to fire again, the motor may not have enough torque to complete the cycling of the gun because now it has no momentum behind it. I'm willing to bet that if he put in a higher voltage battery, he would just be able to switch his gun to full auto and pull the trigger. Now, just to be fair, a 7.2V battery may work but, it would have to have one hell of a mAh rating.

[Kos-Mos]

In fact, the battri voltage should not make a difference that much.... the capacity of the pack if by far more important when talking about torque....

if the motor needs, let say 3 amps to turn when stall, and you pack is only a 600mA, then it will have a hard time giving enought power to the motor....
what an other proof???

the formula for power is Volts*Amps.... so if you drop the voltage, but rise the amp, then there is no power lost...

simple as 3*2=6 and 3*2=6....

voltage only change speed of the motor, but if you have higher voltage, and the motor is working bad, you will so need less amp to have it turn....

[lotmr]

Originally Posted by Avenging Angel

Now, just to be fair, a 7.2V battery may work but, it would have to have one hell of a mAh rating.

2100 mAh :-D