TM L96 AWS possible mods

[Oteck]

I know there's alot of reading and catching up to do so hope you guys cut me some slack since i came late into this game you called airsoft

A little background about me. Im a nerd, gear head, spec geek, you name it.
I love modifying things in the hopes to improve designs. See links on my Mr2 projects if your curious. I do alot of CAD and rnd
1991 MR2 3.3L V6 Conversion | Six speed conversion | Lexus LS430 Big brake conversoin

First off i'd like to discuss the possible things doable to this gun outside the range of bolt on's like PDI/Laylax specific parts. I'd like to indulge im hybrid mockery like taking the best of everything and make it work like implementing a VSR-10 hopup chamber and such not designed for it but make work arounds. If anyone willing to donate original part off their vsr i'll be more than willing to take it off your hands


Fun things i'd like to try may it be cosmetic or minor improvements. Generally ideas i have floating in my head but before any of that i'm going to spend some more time with mr. vernier caliper tool to outright CAD the whole design

PDI L96 Bull base barrel with PDI VSR-10 outher L bull barrel
This setup sure to make the gun really long so your looking into a 624mm long inner barrel. Who the heck can cut you one is beyond me (custom EDGI or use a PSG1 AEG 660mm barrel).

I know this has been discussed to death on other form regarding weather it's beneficial or not but i like to test things even if it cost $$.
things like 500mm vs 660mm in 6 .01-.03-.05 for each while also trying out all possible weights (.25g and above)

Hopup adjuster plate
This part of the gun irks me the most because it's where the plastic is the least connected so it creaks when you squeeze it. I'm designing a lower plate made of aluminum that will use the 2 unused mounts to secure it.
There is alot of possibility with this as it can be a basis for a custom hopup



Solid stock
Another of my irritants is the 2 piece stock, id love to get a spare just to glue together (anyone willing to sell me one? ) so it can be a solid one piece. As is im tempted to plastidip the whole thing to make it more gripy or make a mold out of it and make a CF or FG one. Theres also a chance to incorporate a monopod at the butt end too

[L473ncy]

Damn.... do I sense another Toyota head here? My dream is to one day own 3 different JZX100 Tourer V's (if you know what I mean) and a Hilux.

Anyways welcome. I'm in Vancouver at the moment but heading over to Alberta at the end of the month. I'm sure you've met the local club and started getting to playing games? If not feel free to PM me if you need help.

My help/advice is always free to people who add to the community (and not ADHD 14 year olds who are looking to reaffirm their incorrect notions) and I don't really have a stake so I won't try to sell you anything like a salesman would do.

[Oteck]

I just gotten into it recently (like 2 weeks ago) so i'm sponging up what i can but it looks like i came in late, parts are just vanishing or discontinued where ever i look. Maybe i should get off my butt and get AV'd to see what the classified has....

It's to early for me to head out playing, also i'm lacking proper gear and i'll surely get my ass handed to me with just a sniper rifle with no experience.

Though im neither a 14yrl or has adhd i do have abit of OCD

[Oteck]

I did some upgrades for now, nothing fancy
-did the wire insulation mod with the spacer, as i lost the original
-put in the custom aluminum #40 as a precaution incase it do shatter to bits. I'm now looking to reinforcing the loader track or cnc a 2 piece metal replacement.
-installed PDI barrel spacers

Then i got some parts coming in had to "overnight parts from japan" :lol:
-PDI palsonite HD cylinder set
-PDI receiver (not really needed but i hate how the stock piece is a 2 piece with alot of uneven surface)
-PDI 6.05 500mm inner barrel

Next up i need to get my hand on a APS2 type piston and an aeg barrel for experiments

[ThunderCactus]

We've already done the barrel length testing to death. Barrels beyond 420mm (shorter depending on your platform) absolutely do not make any difference in range or accuracy, and succumb to accuracy loss by barrel fouling faster.
I had a 430mm barrel in my VSR-10, and shooting 380fps, I was 15ft short with BETTER accuracy than another guy with the SAME internals and hop rubber but with a 650mm barrel at 470fps.

So 90fps and an extra 220mm of barrel, less accurate but with an extra 15ft of range due to the huge fps increase
Systema stopped producing M16 length inner barrels for the PTW and now exclusively use M4 length barrels in their M16s, because the longer barrel offers no benefit.

[L473ncy]

BTW In case you're thinking of it don't cut your barrel unless you have machine time to do it cleanly and can crown it properly (which it kind of sounds like you do). It's still best to get COTS barrels cut at the factory instead of doing it yourself but I'll the decision to cut it up to you. With that being said, I do have a 469mm barrel in one of my unfinished projects but I'll see how it performs when I'm finally finished it (it's more for looks over function, I've got an 18" outer barrel on top of it).

[Oteck]

I'll take your word for it but im a guy who likes to try it out even if it's stupid
Also seeing an aws with an +124mm barrel would be funny even if it's impractical on the field. I wouldn't have any issues cutting the barrel, i have access to a lathe and a very experience machinist (manual kinda guy) for my small needs. He can easily cut an aeg barrel into a L96 by adding grooves and rings. Even elongate the bucking slot for a ERhop

That idea is put on the side for now while i'm looking into making my own Rhop. I got access to some dental grade silicon to make some very nice impression of the hopup chamber. It's quite grippy but not enough to stick on the surface which is why it's made for denture mold

The 2 part compound cost 200 bucks for a small package(ouch) but it's fun to play with at work

Also anyone want to enlighten me the difference between a PTW and AEG? i read they are very accurate out of the box but what makes it do that? their roller hop up or the entire design they are made?

[L473ncy]

Ooohh nice. AFAIK the ER hop doesn't really make too much of a difference until you start going to high velocities and long barrel lengths but you can always try it yourself.

IIRC you can get the (E)R hop tubing from Princess Auto, I don't have the exact part number or ID/OD on hand but just make a stop and see what they have available and experiment.

As for PTW vs AEG, if you have the money to burn get a PTW. They are seriously NICE. The guys I play with could pretty much be known as "Team PTW". From real steel specs to the design, to weight in more or less the right places, and cylinder swapping to go from 300 FPS to 500 FPS in like 30 seconds or less. I don't have enough to buy the original PTW (or the aftermarket FCC version) but I might just pick up a CTW ("Celsius Training Weapon") to hopefully be compatible enough with the other *TW guys (note at the moment I own a G&P that's up and running and a custom built VFC being built by me). BTW there used to be a TW owners forum based in the UK but I don't know what happened to it....

[Oteck]

I wouldn't mind an FCC myself ~ but I need to hold off on that. An idea occurred to me awhile back while checking out that roller hopup and thought it was neat. It could be easily mock it up on mine by using PDI PTW 509mm barrel and chamber (assuming the L96 nozzle will seal at all)

[ThunderCactus]

first, ER hops are pointless. The guy who makes Rhop has been experimenting like crazy and is still getting good results at the 600 mark with the regular Rhop, there's no reason to go longer "unless you're using super heavy rounds" and he means .60+

second, FCC is a bit dodgy on their quality control. I would say buy a systema, and get an FCC motor, but the hop mod done by mac or by tac

third, PTW's operate slightly differently mechanically and it makes a big difference.
The air nozzle is control by the piston instead of sector gear and it's more accurately seated in the hop chamber. The hop itself is M14 style which is extremely reliable and accurate. The barrel has a thicker wall making it more stable. It uses a planetary gearset which shrinks the mechbox down to 1/3 the size. The receiver is real steel width (AEG's are FAT). It uses an optical sensor to determine the stop position as opposed to a cutoff lever. And most importantly, they're built to significantly tighter tolerances than AEGs.

Take 10 G&Ps and 10 PTWs, fully upgrade all 10 G&Ps with prometheus parts, and hop mod the 10 PTWs.
Of the 10 G&Ps, maybe 3 will be really good, 4 will be okay, and 3 will be demon guns with constant problems. Of the 10 PTWs, all 10 of them will shoot exactly the same.
You can get an AEG to perform close to a PTW, but all things considered, they're still the best.

[Oteck]

Thanks for the 101, and yes when the fund suffice i'll look toward a PTW but i'll never know where my interest lie in the future. The aws will be my primary tinker toy for now, one is enough and better to get a ptw that works right out of the box

Personally i wouldn't go with the ERhop myself (i don't plan to fire off metal rounds :lol: ) but i'll have to see how the denture compound works, its not slick but it does have a nice surface friction to it and it will form to the same shape as the inner barrel.

I still have to figure out which bucking to use since i know you need one w/o it. The SVR-10 (non pdi chamber) bucking i got from pdi almost fit but the ridges makes it impossible to fit. I know there is a guide out there to trim it but my searching skills doesn't get me far; maybe i'll get a dremel and sand it slightly.... im not getting much results with my box cutter.

Also how do you remove the piston nozzle? i see a dowel hole but i don't have the tool to take it off. whats the makeshift way to get it off w/o severly damaging it?

[ThunderCactus]

never use a dremel. on anything. ever.
just sandpaper to get rid of the hop nub
and the Rhop material isn't exactly expensive. Time is money and time spent experimenting when there's already an ideal material is time wasted lol

[Oteck]

from my pov buying it will cost me more time and money. whats 10-30min of my time compared to shipping time plus cost?

If it doesn't work then thats too bad but thats why experiment are fun, just keep an open mind.

[ThunderCactus]

The fact it's guaranteed to be the right stuff and if yours starts flaking or wearing it might foul, smudge and otherwise ruin the barrel...
Do you know what the shore hardness and tensile strength of the material you're using is? That would give you a good idea right now if it would work or not

And don't make it seem like it's expensive, because it's seriously dirt cheap to get the real stuff lol

[Kos-Mos]

Originally Posted by Oteck

from my pov buying it will cost me more time and money. whats 10-30min of my time compared to shipping time plus cost?

If it doesn't work then thats too bad but thats why experiment are fun, just keep an open mind.

Originally Posted by Oteck

The 2 part compound cost 200 bucks for a small package(ouch) but it's fun to play with at work

I don't know where you live or how you want this shipped, but even overnight by 10AM won't cost you 200$...