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Old February 6th, 2008, 20:59   #1
Muxlow
 
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KJW M700

I just got my new M700 and for some reason it will only shoot like 1 foot.
I have a new propane tank and adapt for it (always worked for my KSC glock and beretta)
I tried the hop up knob and did nothing. How do i adjust the FPS?
Any ideas or help would rock
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Old February 6th, 2008, 21:06   #2
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Know how to pull the bolt out?

After that, remove the two slotted screws on the underside of the bolt, then remove the set screw at the rear of the bolt (located on the hammer). Front half of the bolt should come off, after that use a slotted screwdriver to tighten (clockwise) the shaft the striker spring is on. That will make the striker hit harder, releasing more gas per shot.
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Old February 6th, 2008, 21:26   #3
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Okie. Ill give that a shot in a few mins then let you know
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Old February 6th, 2008, 22:29   #4
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BAM! Got it to work. Now just need a chrono to see how fast its going

Last edited by Muxlow; February 6th, 2008 at 23:06..
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Old February 6th, 2008, 23:08   #5
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Ouch!

Once the bolt is out:

Take out both slotted screws on the underside of the bolt;

Separate the front half from the rear half;

Remove the small set screw in the hammer (end of the bolt, it holds the striker spring guide in place);

Tighten (clockwise) the guide rod the heavy spring sits on to increase strength to release more gas.

Reassemble in reverse order.

If you took it apart more than that, you've gone farther than I have, so I can't help you much there. Lol
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Old February 6th, 2008, 23:13   #6
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Try a popcan. My M700 when maxed out went through both top and bottom with ease (it was in the mid 600's more or less).
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Old February 7th, 2008, 13:06   #7
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O put 5 popcans in a row and from about 6 meters it went thru 3 of them and was stoped inside the 4th
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Old February 7th, 2008, 13:34   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muxlow View Post
O put 5 popcans in a row and from about 6 meters it went thru 3 of them and was stoped inside the 4th
So, you are saying it shoots a bit farther than a foot now?
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Old February 7th, 2008, 14:52   #9
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Why yes it does. Not sure how fast or far because i live in a apt building and this this is the size of my friend and i cant just walk out the door with it without someone seeing. And it being black adn the snow white.. dont help much.
I have a big metal case but thats heavy to lug it down the train tracks to the bush thats not to far away

Any mods or anythign i can do to this? Id kinda like to paint it olive drab so it dont stand out as much
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Old February 7th, 2008, 15:20   #10
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One mod you can do is remove the mount under the barrel (is above the rearmost sling stud) if that hasn't been done already. On some of the KJW M700s, the barrel is forced to sit in the centerline of the stock, and if it wants to side slightly off to the side, then a slight bend in the inner barrel happens. I bought three guns for guys on my team, all of us did the 'free float barrel mod', two of them ended up with the barrel sitting to the left a bit, the third one stayed straight. In my own one, initially I'd get CD sized groups at 30ft, but after doing that mod and a few other minor tweakings I got my groups down to about the size of a quarter.
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Old February 7th, 2008, 15:30   #11
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And how do i do that? The barrle part
Annnnnd what els could i do to make the shots more close togeather? OH! another thing. How do i adjust the scope on it? It's the stock one... No matter what i do the rounds keep hitting low.

And boy do i run out of ammo fast. I need more mags haha
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Old February 7th, 2008, 16:35   #12
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Umm, there isn't a stock scope that comes with it, it only comes with iron sights (which suck because no matter how low of a cheek weld you have, they are still too low). Scope, unscrew the dust covers on the adjustment turrets. Sight it in at no less than about 25-30ft, otherwise no matter how low you get the adjustment turret, you will still shoot too low.

Take a piece of paper, wrap it around the underside of the barrel, hold both halves at the top, and see if it slides all the way back along the barrel as far as you can. If it stops halfway, the aluminum mount is still there. Remove the two screws, one in front of the magwell, the other behind the trigger guard. Then unscrew the sling stud, second one from the front. Use an allen key or something, put it in the hole and turn it out (is a screw really). Separate the stock from the barrel/receiver, use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the mount (two screws I think) and put the stock back on. Pretty much done.

Can improve accuracy by using a small file to smooth out the inside of the feedlips onthe mags, they tend to be rather sharp and is easy to make cuts on the BBs when you load them. Also makes stripping a round off the mag easier and smoother.
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Old February 7th, 2008, 16:38   #13
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No idea what kinda scope it is.. Says 3.5 10x40mm LONG GANGE on the front and thats all.
Doing the barrle thing now.

Nowit was a circle like thing i take out? Then put the trigger guard screws back in and the 2 front sling/bipod screws?

Last edited by Muxlow; February 7th, 2008 at 16:46..
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Old February 8th, 2008, 09:07   #14
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The mount is bare aluminum, is easy to see. Remove it and stash it somewhere, no need for it anymore. You only had to take out one sling stud screw, the one under the mount, so yo ucan either leave the one left in place, or move it with the nut over to the other hole. I put my bipod on the rearmost sling stud. Then just put the two screws into the front magwell and behind trigger guard and start shooting.

Oh, to increase accuracy, dry swab the barrel every 20 shots or so, the groups start to increase in size after that many shots.
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Old February 8th, 2008, 10:23   #15
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And now the barrle is loose ish.. Thats how its to be?
What can i use to clean the barrle? Cant think of anything thats really long like that to do it
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