Doctor's Corner

TheYellowDart · October 2nd, 2005, 05:53

It's the rubber o-rings that can be damaged, and metal guns have those too.

PTE. Pyle · October 2nd, 2005, 08:52

yeah good point didnt even think of those :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

mcguyver · October 2nd, 2005, 11:21

pop your rear receiver pin and flip open the upper mechbox. you will see the top of the sector gear and the switch on the lower mechbox use some ics silicone gear oil (basically regular silicone lube just alot heavier) and spray the sector gear being careful to avoid spraying the switch. then give the piston a quick shot of regualr silicone lube ( the ics spray, not the oil some guys use with propane adapters). run the gun with the mechboxes seperated you should see the gears turn. you should also be able to observe semi operation (the sector gear will only make 1 revolution). make sure the sector gears flat spot is facing towards the upper mechbox and re-assemble them. barring any broken components, your gun should work fabulous. our local retailer has gone thru many ics in the last couple of years and he's had far more tm guns fail than ics. i've got got about 10,000 rds thru my m4 ris without a hiccup.

ILLusion · October 2nd, 2005, 16:11

use white lithium grease as gear/moving part lube.
for general lube, use 100% pure silicone oil, (talk to madmax of airsoft-innovations to get some)

it's very possible that your motor is dying. if it comes down to it, you may need to swap a motor to see if that fixes it. ICS motors are known to be garbage.

PTE. Pyle · October 2nd, 2005, 17:29

i was thinking of replacing my motor with a systema long high speed are those decent motors

mcguyver · October 2nd, 2005, 19:14

i don't believe it is your motor, but you haven't given enough info to be sure. if the motor has a dead spot in the windings it would show up in full auto as well. does this happen? it may also be brush engagement with the commutator but again this would also show up in full auto. i just opened up a g&g ump that "died" after 1 mag from brand new and they used lithium grease throughout it. it broke down into a black sludge that mostly congregated at the bottom of the mechbox.the belief was broken tappet but it was just tappet/sector gear engagement. lithium has a lower viscosity than a standard gear grease and will flow. it disperses moisture and resists reaction with water. both are unlikely to happen in an airsoft gun. use a gear grease (avalaible at can tire or anywhere) for gears and a silicone based grease for the cylinder with a low viscosity (depends on cylinder type and head set type for best result). i haven't found a good silicone grease other than from airsoft manufacturers or what i've manufactured from dow corning components. i recently de-tuned a 475 fps spr/a to 370fps with my silicone grease concoction and we get 370 +/- 2 fps after 6000+ rounds. that i think is a nearly unheard of consistancy in the airsoft world.
but i don't think a discussion of grease is totally on our topic here. as long as you parts are free-moving, including your "sway control bar" as ics calls it (the semi-auto trigger release bar) then you should be ok.

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October 2nd, 2005, 08:52	#17
PTE. Pyle Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: delta B.C.	yeah good point didnt even think of those :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: __________________ To live is to Die

October 2nd, 2005, 16:11	#19
ILLusion GBB Whisperer Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Toronto	use white lithium grease as gear/moving part lube. for general lube, use 100% pure silicone oil, (talk to madmax of airsoft-innovations to get some) it's very possible that your motor is dying. if it comes down to it, you may need to swap a motor to see if that fixes it. ICS motors are known to be garbage. __________________ *Advanced Airsoft Armaments and Enhancements* Quick to the gun, sure of your grip. Quick to the threat, sure of your shot. Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas Accuracy, Power, Speed

October 2nd, 2005, 17:29	#20
PTE. Pyle Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: delta B.C.	i was thinking of replacing my motor with a systema long high speed are those decent motors __________________ To live is to Die

October 2nd, 2005, 05:53	#16
TheYellowDart Myoga Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vancouver, BC	It's the rubber o-rings that can be damaged, and metal guns have those too.

October 2nd, 2005, 11:21	#18
mcguyver Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Northern Alberta	pop your rear receiver pin and flip open the upper mechbox. you will see the top of the sector gear and the switch on the lower mechbox use some ics silicone gear oil (basically regular silicone lube just alot heavier) and spray the sector gear being careful to avoid spraying the switch. then give the piston a quick shot of regualr silicone lube ( the ics spray, not the oil some guys use with propane adapters). run the gun with the mechboxes seperated you should see the gears turn. you should also be able to observe semi operation (the sector gear will only make 1 revolution). make sure the sector gears flat spot is facing towards the upper mechbox and re-assemble them. barring any broken components, your gun should work fabulous. our local retailer has gone thru many ics in the last couple of years and he's had far more tm guns fail than ics. i've got got about 10,000 rds thru my m4 ris without a hiccup.

October 2nd, 2005, 19:14	#21
mcguyver Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Northern Alberta	i don't believe it is your motor, but you haven't given enough info to be sure. if the motor has a dead spot in the windings it would show up in full auto as well. does this happen? it may also be brush engagement with the commutator but again this would also show up in full auto. i just opened up a g&g ump that "died" after 1 mag from brand new and they used lithium grease throughout it. it broke down into a black sludge that mostly congregated at the bottom of the mechbox.the belief was broken tappet but it was just tappet/sector gear engagement. lithium has a lower viscosity than a standard gear grease and will flow. it disperses moisture and resists reaction with water. both are unlikely to happen in an airsoft gun. use a gear grease (avalaible at can tire or anywhere) for gears and a silicone based grease for the cylinder with a low viscosity (depends on cylinder type and head set type for best result). i haven't found a good silicone grease other than from airsoft manufacturers or what i've manufactured from dow corning components. i recently de-tuned a 475 fps spr/a to 370fps with my silicone grease concoction and we get 370 +/- 2 fps after 6000+ rounds. that i think is a nearly unheard of consistancy in the airsoft world. but i don't think a discussion of grease is totally on our topic here. as long as you parts are free-moving, including your "sway control bar" as ics calls it (the semi-auto trigger release bar) then you should be ok.

jam

Doctor's Corner