*click* sound when tryin' to shoot.

[Adamlxlx]

Had the same problem with my AK. Was running an 1500mah 8.4 mini. I just switched to a 3000mah 8.4 large and have no problems.

[Renegade)]

Yes, what is happening that everyone has hinted on here with the battery cause, is when you have a setup that requires a higher rated battery, and you use a small, it will work for only so long, when the battery gets low, it will only pull the gun over half way and then stop... Thats when shit gets locked up and the only way is to open it up to reset it all, or just use a larger battery that will provide more power to finish the cycle.

The new battery will work fine and last longer.

[kalnaren]

The other thing you can do, if you're still using a mini, is a good shim and grease job in the mechbox.

I run my G36 shooting at 370 on a mini and don't have any issues.

[Sportco]

Originally Posted by WolvesSoulZ

You do know that I will buy a stronger battery, I'm just not ordering right now. I took all your suggestion. I'm not ignoring styrak or anyone else. Just so you know. I just did a regreasing while I was there, gearboxes are pretty easy to work on.

I'm used to work on V2 and V3. So heh.
All I can say is thanks for the help.

Edit: While I'm here, would a 9.6v 3600 mAh be alright?

And also, someone just told me that his ICS m4 alway release the spring tension whenever he stop firing.

On a split gearbox ICS like M4 once your done for the day or if you want to split open the gearbox,

1) Fire 2 or 3 times semi... if you were firing auto

Thats Important if you dont want to scrap your piston head because in auto fire the piston can stop at 4 different moments in the cycle sosme of wish will cause the piston head to ram the front of the receiver and damage it. in semi, the piston only stops at the correct position to release tension.

2) Push the forward assist button and that releases spring tension...

And voilÃ*... tension released you can store or open it's gut!!!

Note: Some say that over use of this system (they like the noise it makes) is detrimental to the AEG never read anything official on that... so I don't know...


Cheers,

Pete

[kalnaren]

Originally Posted by Sportco

1) Fire 2 or 3 times semi... if you were firing auto

Thats Important if you dont want to scrap your piston head because in auto fire the piston can stop at 4 different moments in the cycle sosme of wish will cause the piston head to ram the front of the receiver and damage it. in semi, the piston only stops at the correct position to release tension.

Huh?

You fire in semi to release spring tension so you don't store the gun with a compressed spring. Keeping the spring constantly compressed will reduce the tension, and thus the effectiveness of the spring, overall lowering your FPS. Doesn't have anything to do with making your gun explode...

[WolvesSoulZ]

Alright guys, I just wondered. If my AK lock again while I test fire it with my crappy small batteries, whenever I'll recieve my new battery, will it unlock it by finishing the cycle?
I don't want to crack down open the gearbox once again.

Also, the ICS m4 thingies is, yesterday after we opened the upper part of the split gearbox to change the things in there for some modify parts.

Well after he shoots, the spring just release its tension by itself, no need to press the release buttons.

[kalnaren]

Originally Posted by WolvesSoulZ

Alright guys, I just wondered. If my AK lock again while I test fire it with my crappy small batteries, whenever I'll recieve my new battery, will it unlock it by finishing the cycle?
I don't want to crack down open the gearbox once again.

You'll need to release tension, but don't need to open the mechbox.

The AK mechbox is a V3. Just take out the mechbox, pull off the motor, and use a pair of needlenose plies to pull up on the anti-reversal latch. The mechbox will unwind.

[WolvesSoulZ]

Originally Posted by kalnaren

You'll need to release tension, but don't need to open the mechbox.

The AK mechbox is a V3. Just take out the mechbox, pull off the motor, and use a pair of needlenose plies to pull up on the anti-reversal latch. The mechbox will unwind.

Oh much simpler! Thanks alot! ^^; Better then opening it all.

[DarkAngel]

Originally Posted by WolvesSoulZ

Edit: Tryed with a full charge battery, and it didn't change anything, still the clicking sound. The battery gets really hot and the fuse too.
Should I open my gearbox?

Guys, if the battery was fully charged, and that same battery was pulling it before, chances are it was not a battery issue. What he described (according to his symptoms and troubleshooting) was more likely something binding. Its also possible that while dissassembling it, he inadvertantly cleared what was causing the issue.

Minis, while not as powerful as the larger celled counterparts on full charge can still do the job. If your battery was fully charged as previously mentioned. A Larger battery would not have been the issue. If there was a physical jam, It would have made the situation worse and possibly cause damage. If you have a jam, you immediately let go of the trigger and have it repaired else you risk further damage to your box.

[WolvesSoulZ]

Originally Posted by DarkAngel

Guys, if the battery was fully charged, and that same battery was pulling it before, chances are it was not a battery issue. What he described (according to his symptoms and troubleshooting) was more likely something binding. Its also possible that while dissassembling it, he inadvertantly cleared what was causing the issue.

Minis, while not as powerful as the larger celled counterparts on full charge can still do the job. If your battery was fully charged as previously mentioned. A Larger battery would not have been the issue. If there was a physical jam, It would have made the situation worse and possibly cause damage. If you have a jam, you immediately let go of the trigger and have it repaired else you risk further damage to your box.

That's what I did. And now it's fine apparently.

Also, my friend have an AGM m14, and it does the same things, it started to do it after he plugged another battery in it. I do know that the wire are inversed tho, wonder if it's the gear or the motor on that one.
And also, any advice for the ICS m4 releasing its tension by itself after shooting?

[Skladfin]

Originally Posted by WolvesSoulZ

That's what I did. And now it's fine apparently.

Also, my friend have an AGM m14, and it does the same things, it started to do it after he plugged another battery in it. I do know that the wire are inversed tho, wonder if it's the gear or the motor on that one.
And also, any advice for the ICS m4 releasing its tension by itself after shooting?

yup, definitely your battery, this isn't physical binding. You need the one that came with the AGM one.

[DarkAngel]

If a fully charged 8.4v 600mah Mini battery can pull a Systema M120 (400fps) Spring on a full charge, and do so for at least 200 rounds, then whatever mini he is using should be fine on full charge.

He stated earlier on his post that the battery was fully charged. Average Mini is about 1400-2000mah, which will have no problems cycling his box. Im not stating that minis are good for gaming as the low capacitance will cause the battery to die alot quicker than a higher capacitance large cell battery. But the issue here is cycling, not gaming.

telling a new player to force more power into his box before he properly eliminates the possible issues can cause him to make the situation worse. You dont know if theres a loose shim or screw wedged in the box, and you have not determined so. The only information given is that there is a clicking sound (which could be any number of things), and that the battery that was used to cycle the box earlier was now fully charged.

Unless you have the gun in YOUR hands, doing the diagnosis yourself, you should not make "definate" conclusions. For online diagnosis, suggest ways to eliminate possible causes so that he can diagnose it and confirm results himself, or have the box sent to a gun doc.

When youve been doing guns as long as I have, you will realize that not everything is straight foreward and improperly diagnosing or suggesting methods which have the potential to damage the box further (Ie. Forcing the box with more power) can cost the player alot more money in parts and labour if he has to now for example replace the gearset, replace the piston etc etc. He already stated that his wiring and battery was getting hot (ie motor is not turning at all, but its attempting to do so unsuccessfully, which draws much more current, causing the wiring and battery to get hot), forcing more power, will just increase the issue exponentially.

[Skladfin]

i was talking about the M14. I should have elaborated.

[DarkAngel]

not raggin on you sklad, or anyone in particular. Im just trying to make a point about online diagnosis.

Its good that everyone has good intentions for helping this guy. Thats what keeps the community alive. I just want to make sure it stays positive, and doesnt turn out to be a negative for the player.

It very well could be a battery problem, as low battery is one of the most common reasons. But without eliminating all the possibilities, you cant properly diagnose an issue.

[kalnaren]

I've always hated the immediate "it's the battery" response to mechbox issues. Like I said, I can run my G36 with an MS110 on an 8.4v mini without problems.

There seems to be a big attitude on ASC that if a bettery has less than fifty million Mah it's a crap battery.