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September 14th, 2010, 20:31 | #196 |
Can't fix my own guns. Willing to fix yours.
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well I put the sear back in and it seems to be working now, dunno why but I can't complain
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September 15th, 2010, 10:56 | #197 |
a.k.a. ian209
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So, after some pretty good jimmy riggin, I managed to get an aftermarket WE Charging handle to work.
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World record in propane sniffing. Armory -KWA Tavor TAR21 GBBR -TM PX4 w/Detonator Aluminum Slide |
September 15th, 2010, 18:49 | #198 | |
Quote:
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www.ctmotorsports.ca |
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September 19th, 2010, 10:36 | #199 |
Is there some separated lower bodies available somewhere? A friend of mine has his pistol grip spot messed up, and of course it is a plastic one... PM would be appreciated
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September 19th, 2010, 14:25 | #200 |
Checking for you
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Founder of Capital Airsoft in Edmonton Out of the Game 04/22/16 |
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September 19th, 2010, 21:23 | #201 |
Thanks!
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September 26th, 2010, 00:36 | #202 | |
a.k.a. ian209
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Quote:
Also the trigger problem was fixed by replacing the selector switch and reassembling the entire trigger assembly.
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World record in propane sniffing. Armory -KWA Tavor TAR21 GBBR -TM PX4 w/Detonator Aluminum Slide |
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September 30th, 2010, 02:24 | #203 |
Having a little issue with my CQBR and wondering if anyone has had a similar problem.
Its suffering cooldown quite noticeably, much more then when new. In the final stages just the rear of the bolt will cycle without the front moving. I'm running the cradle piston and velocity reducer. Thanks, Grant |
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September 30th, 2010, 18:01 | #204 |
I had the exact same thing. T-hum ( creator of the cradle parts), made me aware of the ice that builds up during full auto shooting. It causes exactly what you say, jamming up the piston. Apparently they use a new "x-ring" that helps this, but im still waiting over two months for mine .... In the meantime, ask Amos about the RA tech upgrades... He seems to think they might show some promise.
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September 30th, 2010, 19:23 | #205 |
Yea still working on getting them.. RA-tech hasn't answered my recent emails yet
What type of lube are you using on the o-ring? An oil will thicken up, but a good grease will stay just as viscus. |
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October 1st, 2010, 12:02 | #206 |
Well I've been using a white lithium grease but I think I need something more of a petroleum jelly sort of consistency. Any suggestions would be great.
I have the X-ring on my piston. The one thing I've noticed is there is not a very close fit between the piston and the cylinder wall. You'd think the blow-back would function much better with a decent seal. Also the top seal (part # M15) on my mags are showing wear from the bolt-carrier sliding across them. Could it be my carrier has some extra casting flash or is out of tolerance? Cheers, Grant |
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October 1st, 2010, 12:25 | #207 |
You shouldn't use white litium for sealing parts, after a while it gums up and does the opposite of what a lubricant should.
I'd suggest using a 100% pure silicon grease (ARS Sticky-G Silicon is what I use on all the GBB's) If you find it's too thick you can put drop of silicon oil in and mix it around to cut it down. |
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October 1st, 2010, 13:11 | #208 |
Anyone has a clue on how to take the hop-up unit and rubber out? Can't figure it out right now!
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October 1st, 2010, 13:18 | #209 |
Anything of a more commercial nature that would work? Same lube for the mag-top seals?
Also any suggestions for metal to metal parts? I'm thinking moly for that. |
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October 1st, 2010, 13:32 | #210 | |
a.k.a. JLiu
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Quote:
(If that's a bad idea, someone please correct me!) |
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