Mosfet for V7
 

Hi all,

I just recently picked up a used Marui M14. All the internals are up to snuff and is preforming perfectly. The only thing I would like to add is a basic mosfet with AB.

So far all I've found is the ExtremeFire AB long, and I wanted to see if I could find any other options that work with the V7 gearbox. Budget is not a concern.

Additionally, should these be installed by a gun tech? I know my way around a gearbox but I've never installed a mosfet before.

Thanks in advance

It's easy, but you need to rewire the gun from end to end.
Best to use new, high quality wire

Do you feel you really need an AB fet, is the mechbox overclocking?

FYI a good way to prevent cycle overlap is to use a neodymium magnet motor

I'm going from an 8.4V Nicad to an 11.1V Lipo, I want my trigger connectors to last a long time. I don't absolutely need it but I would like my rifle to last a while. :)

wicked. fucking. avatar.

Any reason why you're jumping straight to 11.1 lipo instead of 9.6 nimh?

AB fets put a lot of unnecessary stress on the motor and cause the brushes and comm to wear down exponentially faster, but I guess it is really not a big deal anymore because we can get neo motors for 40 bucks shipped. I have a passive breaking mosfet in my m14 and it is a bit easier than the active breaking mosfet on the motor.

The 40 dollar thing is totally true. I've been astounded by the torque put out by my JG Blue and the complete lack of heat from it during chaotic/rapid semi-fire testing.

It's hard to deny how awesome semi-fire trigger response and precision feels with a 11.1V 30-50C battery, a neo motor and an AB MOSFET, however..

From enemybrit's post above I am wondering how much of this is the Raptor doing its AB work, and how much is actually the neo motor I have in the two Raptor setups I have. I'll admit I haven't done a lot of hardcore AB vs. non-AB comparisons with this thing. I have a pair of Extreme-Fire SW-SF MOSFETs coming in about a week, so I am interested to see whether I can even really tell the difference between AB and non-AB.

At the very least, if you're trigger-happy on semi, AB sounds (intuitively, I am not an expert) like it would draw more current from the battery, so that might be something to consider.

With respect to motor damage, there seems to be a bit of disagreement out there on exactly how much wear and tear AB causes on these motors, especially when dealing with non-extreme loads (i.e. below M130). I know Terry from Extreme-Fire was doing some testing along these lines but that the testing has remained inconclusive.

Believe me, AB does wear out motors lol
I did nothing but heavy semi-auto fire on my M4 and I wrecked 2 G&P M140s, a G&P M120 and a TM EG700.
Compared to my M249, the SAW is shooting faster at the same FPS, but with triple torque instead of double torque gears, with the higher ROF it's a lot more momentum to suddenly come to a stop. But it took me longer to wreck a motor on my 249 than it did on my M4 since the AB is working far more often on the M4.

Also, if you've got a less efficient motor (like a systema magnum), if you fire lots of semi consecutively, you immediately notice your grip getting REALLY warm REALLY fast. It definitely takes more juice to use AB.

It's really useful if you shoot like I do in semi, because it greatly reduces your chance of cycle overlap wrecking your piston, and the SW-COMP doesn't start a new cycle until the last one is complete, so there's no starting/stopping halfway through which also may cause damage.

I'm pretty trigger happy on semi, I'm not firing very often but when I do I fire at least 5-10 shots. I got my first chance to use it at a JOC game on Saturday, and after 6 hours of play I'd only gone through one bag of bastard .28's.

I guess what I'm looking for is a passive breaking MOSFET? Can someone drop a brand name and price for one of these?

PS completely unrelated question, but my 8.4v brick pulls the spring fine, but if I'm moving from a 440fps rifle to a 470fps rifle, will the 8.4v still crank it? I'm debating on whether it's really necessary to go Lipo...

Ha thanks, you as well.

I found an 11.1V Lipo on airsoftparts that has the same dimensions as an 8.4v brick, and I really don't like the idea of my nunchuck rattling around in the stock...

Sorry all for the double post.

a simple mosfet will work, try it with the 8.4v first, if it doesn't work then upgrade.
any reason why you're going from 440fps to 470fps?

Well I'm not cruel enough to hit the 480 JOC limit, so I figure 470 should do.

Are we talking extremefire?

The cheapest battery on airsoftparts, a 7.4V 20C 1000mAh battery, is both inferior to and priced at 5.9X the price of the equivalent Turnigy 1000mAh 7.4V 20C battery on HobbyKing.com . This relation generally holds true (though not always at the same multiplier) for most LiPos sold in Canada relative to HobbyKing's prices.

ASCers don't let ASCers tragically waste large sums of money on middle-of-the-road LiPos when they can get top of the line RC brands for 3 to 6 times less. :D :D

Also, the Turnigy 11.1V LiPos are absolutely fantastic. Ask anyone who has seen me at a game since Christmas.

I'm sure others here can chime in similarly...

Well 440fps is the top limit for getting max performance out of a .3g BB
If you're dead set on 470 I recommend using .36g BBs

and +1 to turnigy, their lipo's are awesome