ICS M4 Slow Response
 

After assembling my ICS M4, Whenever I go to fire in semi auto, I need to hold my finger down on the trigger for a good 1/2 of a second before it cycles through to shoot. If I let go at all then it just stops and doesn't fire. Could this be the result of a poorly charged battery or something to do with the electrical?

Poor battery most probably...

Have you tried to charge it before posting online about it?

You seem to be having a lot of 'trouble' with the airsoft community. Unable to be AV'd unable to purchase rifles via credit card.. unable to use obtained and assembled rifles, and now, apparently unable to charge a battery. If you dont know how to assemble AEG's GBB's or .. any gun/rifle, you shouldnt. simple as that. Otherwise a gear could be mis-aligned and the motor is turning it to catch up to the linking gears. hense the 1/2 second delay.

There could be a number of reasons why you are experiencing trigger lag, assuming that you've installed everything porperly and all your electrical stuff is in order. I'll list off some options that guarantee snappier shooting, starting with the hardest:
1. Install a MOSFET. Your ROF will also increase from 2-4+ RPS.
2. Replace all the Tamiya connectors with Deans, your ROF will go up by 1 RPS and you may even notice improved responsiveness.
3. Replace the motor, I recommend anything G&P since they make smooth and responsive motors. They also sound approximately 2.6 million times nicer than the dying horse you call an ICS motor.
4. Replace your current battery with a better one, preferably with a lipo for MAXIMUM responsiveness!
5. CHARGE YOUR CURRENT BATTERY!

Don't do that unless you have found why your gun is slugish first.

If you are using a somewhat decent battery that is fully charged, you should get AT LEAST 10-15 rounds per second. 2 rounds per second means you have issued with your gun.

A LiPo will EXPLODE if used improperly. No jokes, it's like having a pipe bomb stuck in your hand.

First thing first, charge your battery with a good CHARGER. If your charger does not have at least 2 lights and a voltage/current setting, it is not good enough. You need something with a delta-v detection (NiMh/NiCd batteries will drop voltage about 5mV per cell when fully charged). The "Smart charger" things that are sold all around the web IS CRAP. DON'T BUY. A good charger runs for about 50$ usually.

first of all have someone check the gun out, i have no idea where you got your AEG and what the spring is, or even what the battery is (all important factors, if you've just installed an m120 spring and you're still using a medium 8.4 volt battery then i'd point towards that)

what did you open up? did you take apart the lower gearbox?

In all seriousness, I still don't understand why ppl still give lipos such a bad a rep. Lipos are NOT volatile ticking time bombs that explode at the slightest touch. They will only explode if handled incompetently, charged incorrectly/poorly, etc. just like ANY OTHER BATTERY! They will give off many signs that something is wrong well before hand. Main thing is that you gotta make sure you don't undervolt them. Other than that, u can use a lipo like any other battery and you'll be fine.

I think with this problem at hand, he dosn't know if his battery are charged or not so I would assume he's incompetent to use a lipo.

OP: since you're having so much problem, I recommend you seek a gundoc to learn how to operate and take care of your gun. I'm not trying to say you're an idiot, but it seems like you need help.

I agree, the problem is that you won't have a NiMH battery go 'nuclear' in the same way as a LiPo will..

LiPo batteries are not as forgiving, and you CAN get 'burnt' (pun intended) if you treat them badly and arn't aware of the consequences.

hence the reason that people will refer to them as being 'bombs' better that stupid people realise that they could do nasty levels of damage if they're not careful. (only someone completely isolated from forums and the news would think that LiPo = safe and 'idiot proof')

I have had more NiCad batteries die on me (two, one was due to a sticky trigger and a blown ball bearing bushing, the other was a duff cell that tried to melt my PSG-1) BUT I HAVE disposed of one LiPo cell (and i'm close to getting rid of another) that were going 'off' (starting to bloat) rather then risk anything i'm just going to get rid of them (hand them back to the RC shop for disposal)

LIFE battery + ASCU or mosfet = double the protection

Just to clarify, I am getting a decent RPS its just that when I pull the trigger in Semi mode it takes about half a second to cycle the shot through and then after the shot, it takes about another half a second for it to end the cycle. If I try to fire 1-2 shots per second, it either doesnt fire more than the first one (because it isnt cycling all the way through) or it just goes into full auto mode. Although im pretty sure I just need to re-lube some of the internals to fix the semi-full problem.

Regreasing your gears probably won't increase RPS, if anything I'll slow it down. I've seen bone dry gearboxes cycle just fine without grease though they sound like ass (Don't recommend it). Get a new 9.6v battery, if you've still dissatisfied with the response, get a new motor.

Ok, Thanks for the help guys.

I'm no gun doc, but I had a similar problem with my ICS M4 Concept. Sometimes it would lag a bit in either semi or full auto and sometimes it wouldn't fire at all and sometimes if I pulled the trigger really hard it would work. I was afraid of breaking it (and sick of the shotty performance) so I just swapped the trigger switch with one I had from a spare lower gear box I had and voila, works beautiful since! hope this helps!

Thanks for the advice Pugs,

And to what everyone else seems to be saying, just pop in a fresh new battery, It did the trick. Got myself a Numchuck 9.6 1600mAh Intellect battery and now it really fires well. I guess my old battery was just dieing out all along!