What Dremel Bit for Removing Piston Teeth?
 

I am currently correcting my AOE and I need to remove some metal teeth. What Dremel bit should I be using?

Use a file..... Don't know why people like to go crazy with power-tools all the time...

Use a grinding wheel and not a cutting wheel....

Use this for the steel teeth. Run your Dremel at the lowest setting so that you don't off too much quickly.

http://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessor...l.aspx?pid=997

+1.. You can go slow and take off small amounts at a time. Much easier then going "Oh shit, the Dremel took too much off... how do I put some back on now?"

Use a needle file AND dremel. Use a dermal with a carbon cut off disk to cut off the majority of the tooth. Then switch over to a needle file to finish the job. The dremal will do 90% of the hard work and the file can finish up the last 10% and give you the precision to do a correct job.

I've used both and a Dremel give much better results.

If you are filing a hardened teeth, you will need to apply more force at the same time trying to avoid marking the nearby teeth and still maintain control.

With a Dremel, I use the smallest cone shape grinding wheel I can take my time to just touch the area that needs to be removed. The secret is control and patience to remove a little off at a time.

Most people make the mistake by running the Dremel at full tilt and also applying too much pressure.

A dentist uses a air grinder on your teeth, not a file. So start learning how to use a Dremel. It is a very useful tool if used properly.

+1

I use a 1/4" wood chisel
Extremely precise cutting tool. Don't use power tools when you don't have to =)

To remove a METAL teeth?? You must have some damn good chisels!

Dremel for me. I have SOOO many tips, but I only use 4.

Fiber reinforced discs for me, fine grind with the GREEN sharpening disk and touch-up with a steel wool "disk" (I have no idea how to call it, but is cleans up the scratches and burs without actually grinding)...

a dentist also has a foot activate speed control.

OP, use a Dremel with a grinding wheel or the narrow sand paper drum. Go slow with the assumption you will take several passes.

To remove metal piston teeth? Home Depot must love you.

I use bits like these and use them at high speed. Lower speeds make control difficult.

http://www.skykingrcproducts.com/acc...uter-bit-2.jpg

^ I agree with Darklen. You need to use the high speeds of the dremal to get the best results. Its meant to be a high speed tool, and designed that way.

lol i use my table top mill with a 1/8 end mill bit to remove metal teeth. leaves almost a mirror finish, and i don't end up all sweaty and with cuts on my fingers.

Cheater :P

my bad, thought we were talking polycarbonate lol
high speed roughing end mill would work best, or a grinding disc, but grinding discs for dremels are usually crap.

But regardless, my chisel can definitely remove metal piston teeth. I also use it to trim mechbox walls when gears are too tight, shave sharp edges off metal bodies, remove material from metal bodies in tight fitment, I even used it to finish boring out my MOE grip for my PTW lol
It's all just a matter of hardness

grinding bit of some sort... I dunno it was a cheap 10$ jobmate rotary... I used it 5 times and the chuck stripped so I can't change bits anymore.... :P

If you can slide the entire rack out of the piston it makes it extremely easy to remove the teeth with any file or grinding bit. Just use some vice grips or vice with something on top ( so as not to leave marks in the rack with the grips) to hold it down.. cheaper to change the shitty jobmate tool than it is to buy dremel bits. lol.

I just use a cutoff disk and a steady hand. Wear glasses and a cutting disk is meant to cut on its edge, not its side...so not lateral loads, some are pretty brittle and can snap.

+1, had to pry a shard of that crap out of my arm before..

My next hurdle. My teeth are flush with the outside face of the piston. Attachment 33573 How do I slide the rack out? Or do I need to just use surgeon like precision. Would there be an impact if I trimmed the plastic on either side of the teeth to get better access to the teeth?

remove the piston head and the whole rack should slide forward and out.

when you put it back in, don't forget to epoxy it in there when you are happy with your aoe adjustment. :P

What is the purpose of the epoxy? My rack just slid right out of the piston.

So I have done my trimming, rebuilt my gun and found that there was a lot more tension on the spring than normal and that the gun wouldn't cycle (could be related to my shim job). Is this common? I realize that the sorbo takes up space but I wasnt sure if this is a common issue with AoE correction. I am 90% sure that I currently have a M100 spring installed.

racks have been known to plow the pistonhead completely off the piston. Gluing it in with epoxy prevents that possibility and adds some strength to the pickup tooth (helps prevent the pickup tooth and the back of the piston from shearing off. Though with 120 springs, it's pretty uncommon if your piston head is well secured. Not glued, the rack relies on pushing against the pickup tooth or the piston head to stay in place. When you glue it to the piston, the rails where the rack slide into place are now bonded to the rack and help take some of the stresses off the ends of the rack.